La Fin Eternelle: London Fashion Week F/W 2010: Burberry Prorsum

This season Christopher Bailey took Burberry customers back to the 1940's via WWII military coats, tough-yet-dainty day dresses and combat boots with the color pallet to match. The coats, which offer modern takes on Aviator, Army and Navy style military coats (in that order), were high-collared, bulky and lusciously cut with oversized collars and adorned with leather buckles and gold buttons galore. Fur, while only making a minor non-shearling appearance, was a far cry from the gaudy and decadent use of fur that was exhibited during New York Fashion Week. In one case in particular, I found my self questioning whether or not the coat walking down the runway was even constructed of fur or of some sort of multi-faceted leather. Needless to say, Burberry has once again served up a deliciously desirable collection that sits proudly and firmly on the fence between luxury and marketability.

The coats, which are the main focus this season for many a designer, were offered in a plethora of styles that are sure to suit the body of any customer who buys one. There were styles of every color cropped under the bust as well as waist, and thigh length. The coats also came in trim and tailored styles as well as glamorously oversized versions. In a way, Christopher has made it seem like all anybody should need to wear next fall is a good coat, and good coats is exactly what you can expect to find at Burberry (no surprise there).

What was worn underneath these magnificent coats were no trifling matter either. I applaud Bailey for not buying into the micro-mini trend by featuring knee-length day dresses in slightly muted colors, it definitely displays a sense of restraint and all around class. Among the micro-draped, torn, sheer dresses were separates of textured, high-waited skirts with tops to match as well as very feminine tailored dress shirts. It was here that Bailey's WWII inspiration made a deft statement as the models began to look more and more like amazonian soldiers armed to take over the world with power and style.

At this point it seems like I don't even need to mention the shoes, but there's a wellspring of lust that bubbles over just for the sharp-toed (and heeled), buckled, belted and strapped thigh-high and over-ankle boots. Can you say "Hello nurse?" At once strong and tough, these shoes are just the right mix of combat and dominatrix. Shoe lust? I don't even think that will be able to describe the following these shoes will have next fall.

If there was any down side to Bailey's collection it would have to be that there were a few features that felt a little like they had been done before (i.e. thigh-high boots, high-waisted skirts, military pea coats and the whole 1940's vibe in general), but I will say that he took those trends and did them right this time. Bravo Burberry. Bravo.

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