London Fashion Week F/W 2010: Burberry Prorsum

This season Christopher Bailey took Burberry customers back to the 1940's via WWII military coats, tough-yet-dainty day dresses and combat boots with the color pallet to match. The coats, which offer modern takes on Aviator, Army and Navy style military coats (in that order), were high-collared, bulky and lusciously cut with oversized collars and adorned with leather buckles and gold buttons galore. Fur, while only making a minor non-shearling appearance, was a far cry from the gaudy and decadent use of fur that was exhibited during New York Fashion Week. In one case in particular, I found my self questioning whether or not the coat walking down the runway was even constructed of fur or of some sort of multi-faceted leather. Needless to say, Burberry has once again served up a deliciously desirable collection that sits proudly and firmly on the fence between luxury and marketability.

The coats, which are the main focus this season for many a designer, were offered in a plethora of styles that are sure to suit the body of any customer who buys one. There were styles of every color cropped under the bust as well as waist, and thigh length. The coats also came in trim and tailored styles as well as glamorously oversized versions. In a way, Christopher has made it seem like all anybody should need to wear next fall is a good coat, and good coats is exactly what you can expect to find at Burberry (no surprise there).

What was worn underneath these magnificent coats were no trifling matter either. I applaud Bailey for not buying into the micro-mini trend by featuring knee-length day dresses in slightly muted colors, it definitely displays a sense of restraint and all around class. Among the micro-draped, torn, sheer dresses were separates of textured, high-waited skirts with tops to match as well as very feminine tailored dress shirts. It was here that Bailey's WWII inspiration made a deft statement as the models began to look more and more like amazonian soldiers armed to take over the world with power and style.

At this point it seems like I don't even need to mention the shoes, but there's a wellspring of lust that bubbles over just for the sharp-toed (and heeled), buckled, belted and strapped thigh-high and over-ankle boots. Can you say "Hello nurse?" At once strong and tough, these shoes are just the right mix of combat and dominatrix. Shoe lust? I don't even think that will be able to describe the following these shoes will have next fall.

If there was any down side to Bailey's collection it would have to be that there were a few features that felt a little like they had been done before (i.e. thigh-high boots, high-waisted skirts, military pea coats and the whole 1940's vibe in general), but I will say that he took those trends and did them right this time. Bravo Burberry. Bravo.

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Isaac

La Fin Eternelle

Photos of the Day: Pour Homme

"You're The One That I Want" by Mark Pillai

For Bon International Spring 2010

"Desperado" James Roffey by Colin Angus

For Visual Tales

Tyson Ballou & Ryan Kennedy by Marcus Ohlsson

For Brothers Spring 2010 Campaign

"Work in Progress"

By Tetsuharu Kuboto For Spray

"Urban Outfitters - Never Sleep by Rouges Gallery"

Yuri Pleskun by Colin Leaman

*All photos via The Fashionisto

Photos of the Day

Constance Jablonski by Walter Pfeiffer

"French Chic" Isabeli Fontana by Marcin Tyszka

For Harper's Bazaar Russia

Anna Selezneva by Camilla Akrans

For Numero #111

"The Metamorphosis" Omahyra Mota by Elias Wessel

For Vixen Winter 2010

Jessica Stam by Terry Richardson

For Aldo Spring/Summer 2010 Campaign

Magdalena Frackowiak by Greg Kadel

For Numero #111

*All photos via Fashion Gone Rogue

New York Fashion Week F/W 2010: Alexander Wang

When I think of the overall look of New York Fashion Week, I think of clothes that resemble both modern art/architecture but also clothes that are a constant call back to classic american style. I know that the clothes presented during New York Fashion Week are presented with buyers in mind rather than artistry. That being said, I was surprised by Alexander Wang's collection.

By mixing and deconstructing business-wear, further developing/recycling trends from last fall, and dipping it all in industrial grade engine oil Wang has certainly stole my attention as the young designer most likely to establish himself as one of the faces of the future of American style. Even just listening to him talk about the development of his collection is awe inspiring.

As you can see, the thigh-high boots were reinterpreted into leg warmers, lingerie has begun evolving into businesswear, velvet is used in place of fur, and there is an air of beauty floating through a collection punctuated by hard edges, short skirts and sharp tailoring.

A big aspect of the success of a collection, in my opinion, is the ability of the clothes to completely stand apart from anything else that season. I believe it is best, when pieces from your collection are photographed for magazines and editorials, for your pieces to be instantly recognizable when styled in any outfit. Here, Alexander Wang has done just that. There's no chance that any other designer will have produced something this unique, and so I believe Wang has brought something truly original to the table for fall.

Isaac

La Fin Eternelle

Photos of the Day: Pour Homme

Fashion Editioral by Andrea Spotorno

For 10 Men Spring 2010

"White Heat" Zascha by Jordan Graham

For GQ Australia

"Street Style" Aram Gevorgyan

*All photos via The Fashionisto

Photos of the Day

Chanel Iman & Karlie Kloss

For Vogue

Michelle Buswell by Olivier Zahm

For Tank Spring/Summer 2010

"Dangerous Couture"

Elisa Sednaoui & Baptiste Giabiconi by Karl Lagerfeld

For Numero #111

Sasha Pivovarova by Heidi Silmane

*All photos via Fashion Gone Rogue

Fur'splosion

In almost every show so far this New York Fashion week there has been a very big movement towards fur. Fur hats, fur bags, fur shoes, fur cufflets, fur everything! And not just a little fur, oh no no no. We're talking 'Galliano for Dior '05' levels of fur usage here. Its absolutely ridiculous.

Christian Dior Haute Couture (FW 04-05) vs. Marc Jacobs (FW 10-11)

It would almost be cliche for me to mention at this point in time that the US (and, in some way or another, most of the world) is in a recession, and money is tight for anyone and everyone. While effects of the recession have been noticeable in fashion for the past year or so, it appears the infamous mantra of Commonwealth Utilities is taking hold in the back of the minds of New York's designers: "F**K THE RECESSION!".

Now, I'm all for opulence and all the glamour that it brings, but there is definitely some thing to be said for sensibility. Designers may be projecting their optimism for the future with these fur-laden collections, but its highly unlikely that by this time next year people's bank accounts will have recovered enough for them to throw a couple thousand dollars down on a huge, furry addition to their closets. With all of the gigantic fur coats and fur stoles parading in front of the world's faces, it's like designers are dangling a treat in front of the greedy noses of starved puppies.

I would feel more at ease with this disillusionment about what America's economic landscape will look like in the future if the actual design and usage of the fur was (for the most part) more groundbreaking and progressive. Of the fur coats/bags/shoes/gloves/hats/ect. I've seen so far, very few pieces escape evoking the feeling of an old lady who has put on too much makeup in attempt to reclaim her former beauty. Merely the gall to parade around a fur stole in a ready-to-wear collection that is about the same size as that of one that walked the runway five years ago at a COUTURE show (and not just any couture show, a GALLIANO couture show) is, in a word, vulgar.

I support fashion's use of humanely acquired fur, but I do not support these flashy, showboat fur pieces being tossed about while our society is in a fiscal crisis.

@ Marc Jacobs: Poof balls!? I see nothing classy about poof-balls of fur, on accessories or anything else. In regards to the other picture, sequined accessories seem very juvenile to me. I guess that's because there was this phase my little sister went through when she was in middle school where every girl wanted a slouchy bag with sequins all over it. Where did girls get those bags? The dollar store. Therefore the bag on the right looks cheap to me. I'm sure that Marc Jacobs' bag is made from 'the best' sequins but still....

@ Zac Posen: I am SO against those furry shoes. Fur shoes generally look awkward, but this version in particular looks like a pair of shaggy puppies. And besides, having such shaggy fur around the foot area is inviting damage. To properly take care of your fur piece you would have to just never wear them outdoors. Not a very good return on your investment if you ask me. As for the coat, the splotchy use of fur creates an odd silhouette. Plus, the entire effect of the coat is that of random pieces of fur hot-glued to a regular coat.

@Thakoon: Society has already been graced with regular fur coats. For fur coats to be relevant they have to be original; to build upon or innovate upon styles of the past. So the coat on the left at Thakoon already looks passe. With the variety of furs on the model to the right, it looks like she hunted down, killed, skinned, and sewed her coat together herself. Classy...

@Peter Som: Who would actually spend money on these coats? Neon blue and purple fur? What on earth? It is my impression that fur almost instantly becomes a collectors item because its normally so expensive, but there is nothing that says 'collector's item' about these acid-trip coats. In the collection there was also a pink coat, and after the pink fur pieces at Dolce & Gabbana last year it would seem a pink fur coat would have a higher chance of selling than these colors.

@Dennis Basso: The model on the left actually looks like she's being mauled by some creature, and the elegance of the dress on the right is not only brought down by the fact that the model is wearing a messenger bag but more so because that messenger bag looks like a dead animal carcass.

Apparently buyers and critics are excited about the gratuitous amounts of fur on the runways. Maybe our fiscal crisis isn't as bad as I think it is, in which case, yay! But still, it doesn't mean designers have to go fur-crazy here.

Isaac

"La Fin Eternelle"

"Halston The Horrible"

I came upon this video of Halston's Fall/Winter presentation a short while ago:

It appears as though, instead of having a normal, plain-jane runway show like most other labels, Halston has elected to pose their models in a sort of museum exhibit set-up. I read on The Cut that in presentations such as Halston's, the models are made to stand, motionless, for up to two hours. Two whole hours in some of the most uncomfortable shoes (and in some cases, dresses) on the planet. I feel remourse for these models. They are trained to walk and pose in motion (in short, to do what normal humans do except prettier) and here they are, doing the work of a pile of rocks.

Dear Halston, please don't torture your models. If you want to present your clothes on mannequins, then buy mannequins. It's unnecessary and downright demeaning to the work of the models for you to subject them to your frivolous desires. I, for one, do not find your exhibition to be enhancing to the drabness of your clothes in any way. Stop trying so hard and focus more on a progressive look for your upcoming lines because, no matter how you try to package it, your collection is obviously a hodge-podge of vulgarly repurposed passe European styles.

Thank you. Goodnight.

Photos of the Day

"City Nights" Heather Marks by Tesh

"Three Women" Agyness Deyn by Steven Meisel

For Vogue Italia March 2010

"Style Stars" Frida Gustavsson by Greg Kadel

For Vogue Germany

"Picture Perfect" Claudia Schiffer by Karl Lagerfeld

For Vogue Germany March 2010

*All photos via Fashion Gone Rogue