February 17, 2010

Fur'splosion

In almost every show so far this New York Fashion week there has been a very big movement towards fur. Fur hats, fur bags, fur shoes, fur cufflets, fur everything! And not just a little fur, oh no no no. We're talking 'Galliano for Dior '05' levels of fur usage here. Its absolutely ridiculous.

Marc Jacobs Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
Christian Dior Haute Couture (FW 04-05) vs. Marc Jacobs (FW 10-11)

It would almost be cliche for me to mention at this point in time that the US (and, in some way or another, most of the world) is in a recession, and money is tight for anyone and everyone. While effects of the recession have been noticeable in fashion for the past year or so, it appears the infamous mantra of Commonwealth Utilities is taking hold in the back of the minds of New York's designers: "F**K THE RECESSION!".

Now, I'm all for opulence and all the glamour that it brings, but there is definitely some thing to be said for sensibility. Designers may be projecting their optimism for the future with these fur-laden collections, but its highly unlikely that by this time next year people's bank accounts will have recovered enough for them to throw a couple thousand dollars down on a huge, furry addition to their closets. With all of the gigantic fur coats and fur stoles parading in front of the world's faces, it's like designers are dangling a treat in front of the greedy noses of starved puppies.

I would feel more at ease with this disillusionment about what America's economic landscape will look like in the future if the actual design and usage of the fur was (for the most part) more groundbreaking and progressive. Of the fur coats/bags/shoes/gloves/hats/ect. I've seen so far, very few pieces escape evoking the feeling of an old lady who has put on too much makeup in attempt to reclaim her former beauty. Merely the gall to parade around a fur stole in a ready-to-wear collection that is about the same size as that of one that walked the runway five years ago at a COUTURE show (and not just any couture show, a GALLIANO couture show) is, in a word, vulgar.

I support fashion's use of humanely acquired fur, but I do not support these flashy, showboat fur pieces being tossed about while our society is in a fiscal crisis.
Marc Jacobs Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear Marc Jacobs Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
@ Marc Jacobs: Poof balls!? I see nothing classy about poof-balls of fur, on accessories or anything else. In regards to the other picture, sequined accessories seem very juvenile to me. I guess that's because there was this phase my little sister went through when she was in middle school where every girl wanted a slouchy bag with sequins all over it. Where did girls get those bags? The dollar store. Therefore the bag on the right looks cheap to me. I'm sure that Marc Jacobs' bag is made from 'the best' sequins but still....

Zac Posen Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear Zac Posen Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
@ Zac Posen: I am SO against those furry shoes. Fur shoes generally look awkward, but this version in particular looks like a pair of shaggy puppies. And besides, having such shaggy fur around the foot area is inviting damage. To properly take care of your fur piece you would have to just never wear them outdoors. Not a very good return on your investment if you ask me. As for the coat, the splotchy use of fur creates an odd silhouette. Plus, the entire effect of the coat is that of random pieces of fur hot-glued to a regular coat.
Thakoon Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear Thakoon Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
@Thakoon: Society has already been graced with regular fur coats. For fur coats to be relevant they have to be original; to build upon or innovate upon styles of the past. So the coat on the left at Thakoon already looks passe. With the variety of furs on the model to the right, it looks like she hunted down, killed, skinned, and sewed her coat together herself. Classy...
Peter Som Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear Peter Som Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
@Peter Som: Who would actually spend money on these coats? Neon blue and purple fur? What on earth? It is my impression that fur almost instantly becomes a collectors item because its normally so expensive, but there is nothing that says 'collector's item' about these acid-trip coats. In the collection there was also a pink coat, and after the pink fur pieces at Dolce & Gabbana last year it would seem a pink fur coat would have a higher chance of selling than these colors.
Dennis Basso Fall 2010 Ready-to-WearDennis Basso Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
@Dennis Basso: The model on the left actually looks like she's being mauled by some creature, and the elegance of the dress on the right is not only brought down by the fact that the model is wearing a messenger bag but more so because that messenger bag looks like a dead animal carcass.

Apparently buyers and critics are excited about the gratuitous amounts of fur on the runways. Maybe our fiscal crisis isn't as bad as I think it is, in which case, yay! But still, it doesn't mean designers have to go fur-crazy here.

Isaac
"La Fin Eternelle"

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